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San Diego Gay Travel Guide
It’s warmer than San Francisco. It’s smaller than LA. For many gay men and women, San Diego was a surprising discovery. It’s got everything that the big gay meccas have, without the traffic, pollution, or bad weather. It’s a manageable city, with gorgeous scenery and the most perfect weather in America. Tourists throng here in all seasons (more than 20 million each year!) for world famous attractions like Sea World and the San Diego Zoo. You’ve been to a Sea World somewhere else, you say, and they’re all the same? Think again. You’ve been to your home town’s zoo, you say, and they’re all the same? Think again. Sea World and the San Diego Zoo have no parallel anywhere on the planet. If any city got its “central park” right, it’s San Diego. Balboa Park is the largest urban park in the U.S., boasting no fewer than 26 museums and theatres (and the SD Zoo). Among them, the San Diego Museum of Art and the Timken Museum of Art are respected for their American and European collections. The Spanish Village is a collection of tiled cottages which are home to artists of all sorts, and you can watch as they create their masterpieces. The Old Globe produces Tony-award-winning theatre. And that’s just the beginning! There are a dozen more museums, and several performance spaces which offer live music and theatre throughout the year. Coronado is an island just across the bay from downtown, home to the world famous Hotel del Coronado (dating to the late 1800s) and one of American’s best beaches. The Gaslamp Quarter draws the hetero masses with its Old World architecture, and fantastic restaurants and shops. The San Diego Trolley is a quaint way to get around the downtown area and down to Tijuana, Mexico (which has a surprisingly lively gay scene!), but it doesn’t service Hillcrest, the gay community, so it’s best to have a car here. (However, parking in the gay district can be a nightmare, be prepared to park in the neighborhoods and walk.) The San Diego gay community is very diverse, with heavy Latino and military influences. The city is less than 30 miles from the border with Mexico, and two massive military bases are contained within the city limits, the Naval Air Station on Coronado, and the Miramar Marine Air Corps Station just north of town. The city is always rocking, but when the sailors are in town on leave, get ready for a party! (Just don’t ask, and certainly don’t tell.) Black’s Beach, ten minutes north of town near La Jolla, is the biggest nude beach in America, and much beloved by the Southern California gay community. Access to the beach, despite its popularity, is challenging, and the gay crowd usually uses the Glider Port access trails. The gayest section of this 2-mile stretch of sand is near the massive steel anchor, which is often painted in rainbow colors, or like a globe.
Gay San Diego Bars, Restaurants and Clubs
Your first stop in gay San Diego should be Top of the Park, a happy hour held atop the Park Manor Hotel right on Balboa Park. Each Friday from 5pm to 10, every gay man in San Diego packs the rooftop terrace of this venerable hotel to chat, schmooze, and flirt. It’s a great place to get acquainted over cheap, strong drinks, but expect long lines for the rickety elevator. Once you’ve passed that initiation rite, check out Bourbon Street, a popular mainstream gay and lesbian hangout in Hillcrest. The Brass Rail is the oldest gay bar in the city, and is still thronging with folks each night. Numbers is even more popular with the boys. Bacchus House is regularly voted the best GL bar in town, probably for its funky Greek Renaissance décor. Flicks draws a huge crowd for its karaoke Sundays. Number One Fifth Ave has an enormously popular smoking patio (rare in this smoke-free city) with an outdoor pool table. Kickers, the country-western dance bar attached to Hamburger Mary’s, draws boys of all types to alternate between two-stepping and disco dancing. The Flame UltraLounge was historically ruled by lesbians, but has become a popular place for the boys to party on Friday nights. Six Degrees has become the lesbian hangout par-excellence. The leather crowd favors ReBar (formerly Wolf’s) and the San Diego Eagle.
When it comes to clubbing, San Diego is torn between Rich’s and Club Montage. They’re both classic gay discos, with massive dance floors and world-famous DJs. The only difference is that Montage is not in Hillcrest, and thus not within walking distance from the other bars. (But it’s bigger!)
San Diego has superb food. For gay-all-the-way, it doesn’t get any campier than Hamburger Mary’s, with massive margaritas and big-as-your-face gourmet burgers. And you can work off those calories in the attached dance club, too. On the other side of Balboa Park sits The Big Kitchen, the only place to have breakfast in San Diego. Extremely popular with the gay masses, the hovel is an institution in SD. Whoopi Goldberg once waited tables there. Crest Café, in the middle of Hillcrest, is a beloved gay institution, serving All-American food, all three meals a day, from 7am to midnight. Window seats are at a premium here. For something a little snazzier, Hash House A-Go-Go will stun you with their eclectic menu and outrageous presentation. Equally popular among gay patrons, and every bit as delectable, is Parkhouse Eatery.
For a popular change of pace, Tijuana, Mexico makes for an exciting evening. The San Diego Trolley runs all the way to the border, and you can cross over on foot easily with your driver’s license. (We recommend you take your passport these days.) Once through border control, take your first right. Immediately on your left you’ll see Bar Cagua Mamas, a popular gay watering hole. A little farther down on the left is Club Extasis, a huge gay disco popular with American tourists. Two other clubs have more local flavor at night, Mike’s and Los Equipajes. Both draw hundreds of local gay guys, and quite a few SoCals. We recommend you take a cab to the latter two, since they’re a hefty walk from the border. As in any foreign country, keep your wits about you when walking around at night. The last trolley leaves the border at 1am on weekends, so if you’re planning staying later, you’ll need to drive down and park in the lot at the crossing.
Gay Friendly and Gay San Diego Hotels
San Diego has a surprising wealth of gay places to stay. Most legendary is the Park Manor Suites, a character hotel right on the edge of Balboa Park. Expect creaking floors, antiques, and plenty of lisping boys trodding the hallways. The Hillcrest Inn is even more centrally located, within walking distance of most bars. The Balboa Park Inn is a bit smaller and more intimate. The city has more to offer in the way of guesthouses. In Hillcrest, Kasa Korbett is a charming B&B a few blocks from the bars. Carol Channing had the good sense to stay here on a recent visit to the city. The Harbor House Resort is known for attracting a rowdy, all-male crowd to its location near downtown. Mike’s Place is a gay-owned private cottage for rent. (They have an outdoor shower!) Casa Granada sits across the park from Hillcrest, and offers three private suites, or rental of the entire house. The Keating House is a charming Victorian B&B on Balboa Park. If you’d rather be near the beach, check out the Beach Place, with a clothing-optional terrace.
Call an edirp.com gay travel specialist at 1-888-EDIRP-EZ (1-888-334-7739) or (214) 520-0345 (U.S.) to book any of the hotels mentioned above. Any hotels with links may be booked via our secure online booking system.
San Diego Gay Pride and other Gay Events
San Diego Pride is held the last weekend of July, and draws revelers from all over Southern California. Particularly famous is the Zoo Party, when the world-famous zoo turns pink with partiers. (Just don’t tell the ASPCA!) Latin Pride, in mid October, draws Latino boys from all over SoCal and northern Baja, and their many admirers.
Travel guide by Benjamin Starr, a travel writer who claims the entire world as his home. When he's not at home, he can sometimes be found at a residence in Dallas, Texas. To contact Ben, email him at benjaminstarr@sbcglobal.net. |
