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Provincetown Gay Travel Guide
It’s the place where gay men and women escape the hustle and bustle of city life, to a more provincial routine reminiscent of the early years of the upper-class colonial lifestyle. P-Town’s quietly diverse legacy began in the early 1900s when artists set up homes and studios on the end of Cape Cod, far from the censoring eyes of the city. The impressive list includes Tennessee Williams, Jack Kerouac, Jackson Pollack, and Eugene O’Neill. When sexual and political “outlaws” got wind of the tiny commune on the Cape, they, too migrated there. And thus was born America’s oldest gay resort, Provincetown. In the summer, the village population swells with gays and lesbians thronging to the quaint guesthouses, art galleries, and beaches. In the winter, the village dwindles to its few permanent residents, the great majority of whom are gay. In any season, Provincetown varies dramatically from other gay meccas. Life here feels like you’ve been transported a hundred years back in time, with morning walks on the beach, afternoon teas, and evenings at the theatre. You might as well be in Salem or Plymouth in 1890, with the only difference being that gay is normal. Perhaps that’s what continues to draw the summer masses: the chance to experience gay life in a vastly different way. There aren’t any big tourist attractions on the Cape, and Provincetown is most definitely not about partying (though sometimes on summer weekend evenings, you might be convinced otherwise.) Your best bet is to choose your guesthouse wisely, then sink back into the routine and ritual of gracious Provincetown life. That means quiet meals with new friends, shopping and art gallery visits, relaxing on the beach or at your guesthouse pool, afternoon cocktails, and, if you’re in the mood, some flirting at the evening Tea Dance. Herring Cove Beach, on the west end of town, is the beach preferred by gay folk. From the parking lot, walk to the sand and turn left. You’ll reach the lesbian area first, and the gay men’s area after 30 minutes or so. Many people consider the beach clothing-optional, though the National Park Service sometimes hands out tickets to those people. There’s another, faster route to the gay area, and your guesthouse host will be happy to explain it. Getting to Provincetown isn’t the easiest task. You can fly directly to the Cape on a tiny plane from Boston, or you can take the summer ferry. You can also drive there, about 2 hours from Boston. Once in P-Town, you’ll find a car to be more of an annoyance than an asset. Everything is within walking distance, and if you’re not in the mood to stretch your legs, you can jump on the yellow school bus that runs the length of town in summer until 1am. Many people rent bicycles, and P-Town Bikes, a gay-owned company, has a variety to choose from.
Gay Provincetown Bars, Restaurants and Clubs
There aren’t a lot of bars and clubs in P-Town, but the ones that do exist are, obviously, heavily patronized. But like everything in Provincetown, there is a routine to which bars are visited and when. This routine can change, and your guesthouse is the best source of information. But some things that never change are the afternoon Tea Dances at the Boatslip Resort, from 4pm-7pm. After that, everyone heads to The Pied Bar for the AfterTea T-Dance. (Only gay men could have thought of that one!) The waterfront dance floor can range from pulsating dance energy to chatty social scene, depending on the afternoon. The event runs until 10pm. Outside this routine, the Atlantic House is a popular little joint, with a room for the mainstream masses, a room for the leather crowd, and another room for dancing. The Crown and Anchor is a massive complex, which includes The Wave, a video bar, The Crown Cabaret, with live drag and vocal entertainment, the Paramount Club, the largest dance space in P-Town (Friday and Saturday nights are best here), and The Vault, a popular leather dive. The lesbian scene is happening on Friday and Saturday nights at The Pied. But The Pied becomes the preferential Sunday night hangout for gay men, when they host Bound. Vixen, at the Pilgrim House Inn, is a popular lesbian bar. Club Purgatory, at the Gifford House Inn, is the leather crowd’s favored dance spot, but is more mainstream during the week. Big dance parties are held regularly at the various clubs by David Flower, an event promoter, and his website has an up-to-date calendar.
Dining in Provincetown ranges from seaside clam shacks to world-class dining rooms. Unlike many gay resort towns, you can spend a lot or a little, whatever your budget mandates. Menus for the gay-owned and gay-friendly restaurants can usually be perused at your guesthouse, and your host will be happy to make reservations. All the business owners in P-Town know each other, and there’s always a personal welcome waiting for you at a restaurant if your host has made reservations for you. Some of the primarily-gay eateries are The Central House at the Crown and Anchor complex. Their menu ranges from bar food to Herbed Filet of Salmon and Pan Seared Chicken Florentine. In the same complex, the Crown Poolside Grill offers cheap lunch fare with a view. Café Blasé has an eclectic menu and a street-side terrace. Bubala’s is a P-Town institution, with seafood driving the menu. At the gay-owned Commons Guest House, their onsite bistro is wildly popular for its wood-oven pizzas and gourmet entrees. In summer, reservations are essential for peak dining times at any restaurant (8pm-10pm). Even in the fanciest haute-cuisine houses, dress is casual.
Gay Friendly and Gay Provincetown Hotels
Choosing the right guesthouse will dictate the feel of your trip to Provincetown. Most tourists return to the same guest house year after year. July and August are peak season for P-Town, so book your summer reservations early (at least a year in advance for Carnival week.) In winter, prices almost halve for guesthouses which remain open, but many are closed in the off-season. There are more than 50 small inns that cater specifically to the gay crowd. A few are exclusively male with clothing-optional pools. Many advertise to both gay men and women. And several are lesbian-only. Because the selection of your guest house is so critical, it is highly advisable to contact the Provincetown Business Guild, the gay chamber of commerce, for a lodging guide and advice, or consult with a local reservation service which caters to the gay community like In Town Reservations. We can’t list and review every one of the guesthouses, but among the most popular for gay men (which are normally clothing-optional) are the Admiral’s Landing, the Archer Inn, Carl’s Guest House (budget), the Prince Albert, the Captain’s House (popular with bearish crowds), the Ranch Guestlodge, Eight Tremont, and Romeo’s Holiday. The majority of guesthouses advertise to both gays and lesbians, though they still primarily attract a male following. Perhaps the most legendary are the Boatslip Resort, Crowne Pointe Inn & Spa and the Crown and Anchor Hotel. Additional popular hostelries are the Aerie House and Beach Club, the Anchor Inn, the Beaconlight, the Benchmark, the Carpe Diem, the Chicago House, The Commons, the Dunes (budget), the Fairbanks Inn, the Gifford House, the Grand View Inn, the John Randall House, Land’s End, Seasons, Roomers, Snug Cottage, Sunset Inn, the Watership Inn, and the White Wind Inn. For lesbians, the Pilgrim House Inn is most popular, with its dyke bar downstairs.
Call an edirp.com gay travel specialist at 1-888-EDIRP-EZ (1-888-334-7739) or (214) 520-0345 (U.S.) to book any of the hotels mentioned above. Any hotels with links may be booked via our secure online booking system.
Provincetown Gay Pride and other Gay Events
Provincetown prefers to celebrate Pride every day of the year. Their closest event to an actual Pride celebration, though, is Carnival, which takes place the third week of August. Women’s Week is the second week of October, and is something of a lesbian circuit party with a political and artistic flair. Fantasia Fair, held the following week, is a trans-gendered and/or cross-dressing symposium, the largest and oldest of its kind. Single Men’s Weekend is the first weekend in November, a bizarre combination of circuit party and social workshop, and it effectively ends the tourist season for Provincetown, with the notable exception of Holly Folly, a gay and lesbian holiday extravaganza.
Travel guide by Benjamin Starr, a travel writer who claims the entire world as his home. When he's not at home, he can sometimes be found at a residence in Dallas, Texas. To contact Ben, email him at benjaminstarr@sbcglobal.net. |
